You want authenticity? Head inland where “reservation recommended” means shouting through someone’s kitchen window at lunchtime.The real magic happens where €500 plates get replaced by hand-rolled pasta served on checkered cloths by nonnas who’ve never heard of Michelin stars. Coast shines bright sure.But Sardinia’s soul? That’s buried deeper than pirate treasure in Cala Luna’s caves.Waiting for anyone willing to look past the postcard-perfect marinas.
Italy’s second-biggest island has over a thousand miles of coastline. The interior’s all rugged mountains. This place was actually the first recognized Blue Zone globally. More people hit 100 here than most spots on Earth. Sardinia always did its own thing culturally speaking. Shepherds have roamed those rough hinterlands for ages, keeping their own pastoral ways alive. Phoenicians and Romans left their mark sure. But the real ancient stuff here? Those stone towers called nuraghi from the Bronze Age. Older than both civilizations by centuries. Along with the beaches and mountains obviously. There’s also cities like Cagliari kicking around. Plus villages that made Italy’s prettiest list apparently.
I’ve done Sardinia a few times before. Twirled spaghetti with clams along Costa Smeralda. Jumped off boats into Mediterranean waters near Maddalena islands. Lounged on San Pietro’s tiny beaches, stuff like that. But really getting the place required local input this time. Asked Raffaella Zedda who works at Forte Village and Palazzo Doglio in Cagliari. Also chatted with Elisa Valeria Bove, you know, runs Roma Experience planning Italy tours for folks who want custom trips. Here’s what they had to say.
Best Hotels in Sardinia
Hotel Cala di Volpe, a Luxury Collection Hotel
The legendary Hotel Cala di Volpe sits among four Costa Smeralda resorts. Aga Khan commissioned them all back in the day. Jacques Couëlle designed the place. Called himself an architect-sculptor type. Ran with Picasso and Dalí back when. He took cues from old Sardinian building styles. White walls everywhere you look. Lots of curves. Stained glass with abstract patterns in there too. These days it’s part of Marriott’s Luxury Collection after recent renovations.
Romazzino, a Belmond Hotel
Romazzino first popped up in the 1960s thanks to the Aga Khan. It’s sitting on what plenty call the nicest stretch of sand along Costa Smeralda. Back in its prime, you’d spot royalty rubbing shoulders with movie stars. Princess Margaret showed up sometimes. Grace Kelly too. Even Ringo Starr from The Beatles hung around there. Belmond grabbed the place in 2024. They’re teaming up with Palomba and Serafini Studio right now to give the whole property a modern refresh.
Conrad Chia Laguna Sardinia
People keep bringing up Conrad Chia Laguna when talking Sardinia spots. Bove mentions it’s got this beautiful location down south. The spot sits right on Sardinia’s southern coast. Way more affordable than Costa Smeralda too. Whole resort’s surrounded by nature pretty much. Turquoise waters everywhere you look, you know. Coastline there’s all dramatic cliffs and that bright blue sea color. Spa’s a big draw there, apparently. Place has this vibe that feels private somehow. Makes you feel like you’re the only guest around.
Forte Village
Set along Sardinia’s southern coast, this resort spreads across 116 acres of land. Eight different hotels sit on site ranging from family-friendly spots like Hotel Le Palme to Villa del Parco which holds membership in Leading Hotels of the World there are also 21 restaurants and 14 bars scattered around guests can choose from plenty too you’ve got a tennis and football academy where Real Madrid Foundation coaches handle training sessions then they’ve got six saltwater pools set up for thalassotherapy treatments beaches come equipped with those plush lounge chairs under umbrellas everyone seems to love those things overall it covers pretty much anything you could want during a stay down there.
Best Things to Do in Sardinia
Swim and sunbathe on the beaches
People talk a lot about Sardinia’s beaches having a long list of stunning spots. Tuerredda and Is Arenas Biancas down southwest get mentioned as places you have to see. But local guide Zedda points out his personal favorite’s Pixinnì over on Strada Provinciale 71. Wild stretch with that super fine white sand everyone loves. Water looks turquoise there, you know. Mediterranean maquis all around the back of it makes for good scenery too.
Take a boat ride around the Maddalena archipelago
The Maddalena archipelago sits just off Costa Smeralda. Protected national park status keeps its landscapes pristine here. Glittering aquamarine waters everywhere you look.
La Maddalena island gives its name to the whole chain. Has an old American naval base sitting there still. The main town shares the island’s name too. Made it onto Italy’s Borghi Più Belli list for most beautiful towns they’ve got. Caprera comes next in size among these islands. Giuseppe Garibaldi connections run deep here. He was that general who unified Italy back in 1860 by force basically. His legacy still hangs around Caprera like old campaign maps left on a table somewhere.
Travel back in time at the archaeological site of Nora
“Nora might be considered one of this island’s earliest settlements,” Zedda remarks.”Though nobody can prove it completely.” He’s made multiple visits over time.”Still grabs you every single visit.” What sticks out most is that open-air theater along shorelines.”They actually stage events there during summers even now.” Then you’ve got those floor designs made from tiny stones.”Wild how detailed they kept everything.”
Discover the island’s mysterious nuraghi
The nuraghi are conical stone towers found only on Sardinia. Built by the Neolithic Nuragic civilization, they became a UNESCO World Heritage Site back in 1997. Bove points out their historical significance, tracing human activity from the Bronze and Iron Ages. But what really stands out is how they’re placed. These structures pop up in these jaw-dropping landscapes, almost like they’re part of the terrain itself. It creates this whole visual experience that’s hard to forget.
Best Restaurants in Sardinia
Trattoria da Gianni
“Trattoria da Gianni isn’t some high-end spot,” Zedda notes He still eats there weekly Can’t stop talking about their seafood either Everything comes in crazy fresh Cooked exactly how locals have done it for ages Location seals the deal Right on Teulada Gulf Near those weathered docks Old Saracen tower looming over everything Adds up perfectly.
Ristorante Antica Gallura
Bove’s go-to spot out in Arzachena’s worth checking out. It’s about 15 minutes from Costa Smeralda by car. They do traditional dishes there, plus this killer suckling pig everyone talks about. Locals call it porceddu. The key’s in how they cook it over an open flame for hours, slow roasting until it’s just right.
Ristorante Da Nicolo
Family-run spot in Carloforte. Their thing is this linguini alla Nicolo with tuna, capers, olives, pecorino cheese, lemon zest. You know how some places have that one must-order dish. This is definitely it here. If you’re not big on tuna, no stress. They’ve got plenty of other local seafood dishes too.
Cities and Towns to Visit in Sardinia
Porto Cervo
The main town on Costa Smeralda spreads out from the harbor area. That’s where all the big boats park during summer months. Around the docks there’s fancy places to eat and drink. High-end shops too like Armani and Dolce and Gabbana. You should check out Stella Maris Church while you’re there. It was designed by Michele Busiri Vici who also did Romazzino you know.
Cagliari
Cagliari is Sardinia’s capital city originally settled by Phoenicians centuries back. Romans came later and took control eventually. The area became part of Piedmont-Sardinia’s kingdom under Savoy rule before Italy unified into one country these days you can wander through its old medieval district up on the hillside chill at nearby beaches or dive into buzzing spots for food and drinks after dark everything kinda mixes ancient stuff with modern life there pretty well honestly.
Carloforte
Carloforte sits on Isola di San Pietro off Sardinia’s southwest coast. Fishermen from Liguria settled there back in the 1700s. They painted buildings in those soft pastel colors you see everywhere now. Used to be all about tuna back in the day, processing and fishing it nonstop. These days they serve every tuna dish you can think of in local restaurants. Crystal-clear waters all around. Beach spots like Spiaggia La Bobba and Punta Nera have those chill clubs where you just lounge around. Thing is, this place nails that perfect Italian beach town vibe without trying too hard.
Best Time to Visit Sardinia
When to go to Sardinia really comes down to what you’re after. Summer’s when the beaches get busy. All the restaurants and bars are open then. Most of the fancy resorts run from spring till fall anyway. If crowds aren’t your thing, Zedda and Bove say September’s better. “September’s perfect if you want to take it easy,” Zedda says. Lets you check out Sardinia without baking in crazy heat. You can still swim most days around then. Plus it’s cooler for hiking up in the mountains or checking out spots like Cagliari.
How to Get to Sardinia
Sardinia has three key airports for visitors to know about. First up is Olbia Costa Smeralda (OLB), then Alghero (AHO), and Cagliari Elmas (CAG). Coming from the U.S., you’ll need to connect through mainland Europe first before reaching the island. OLB handles flights from Italian hubs like Rome and Milan. You’ll also find seasonal routes from other parts of Europe when tourism spikes.
For Sardinia’s western coastline, AHO serves as the main entry point. It connects directly with multiple European cities year-round. Down south near Cagliari? That’s where CAG comes into play. This airport links up with big names like ITA Airways and Ryanair alongside other regional carriers. Geography matters here when choosing your arrival point. Coastal zones pair best with their nearest airport for convenience anyway. All three spots handle intra-European traffic pretty well though CAG sees more year-round activity overall.
Sardinia by Plane
Looking at flights from the UK first. You’ve got Ryanair, Tui and easyJet running routes to Alghero, Olbia and Cagliari in Sardinia. Those tend to offer some of the cheapest options around. Over on the Italian mainland side of things, daily flights head out regularly from Rome, Milan and Bologna to Sardinia’s airports. Smaller cities have more limited connections though not completely out of reach. Major carriers here include Alitalia along with Air Italy plus those budget airlines again like easyJet and Ryanair. Prices kick off around 40 euros one-way for that Milan to Alghero route. You know how it goes with those no-frills airlines pricing structures.
Sardinia by Ferry
Ferries run year-round to Sardinia from mainland Italy plus Sicily, Corsica and France too. Reserve way ahead for summer trips especially if you have a vehicle or motorcycle August sailings can be full by May High season starts around 40 euros per person depending where you’re coming from.
The basic Ponte tickets mean sleeping on deck. Upgrading gets you an armchair that reclines. Adding a bunk pushes it up another 45 euros or s.o Cars cost about 130 euros during peak times. Oh and watch for deals when booking round-trips early within specific windows. They sometimes do packages covering one car plus two or three people.